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An Elegant Soda Bread

3/2/2014

3 Comments

 
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Since it's the month of Saint Patrick's Day. I'm sharing my recipe for Elegant Soda Bread again.  The added sugar and coriander make it a little different than the usual fare, and you can serve it pretty much at any meal.  I like it best as an accompaniment to fish.  

When I was in my first year of priestly studies at St. Meinrad School of Theology, I used to visit Louisville, KY, about 70 miles away.   In my first trip there with my friend John, we found a guide of the top 60 restaurants in the city.  We decided that we would attempt to eat our way through the guide over the next four years, (leaving out anyplace that required dressing up too much!)   Of course, we never got past the first 20, because we found a few we really liked and stuck with them.    One of these favorites was a classy but unpretentious place called Jack Fry’s on Bardstown Road.  They served a coriander soda bread with every entrée, and I used to eat baskets of it.  The addition of coriander gives the bread an undercurrent of citrus that is subtle and exquisite. 

Elegant Soda Bread
4 cups all-purpose flour
1 tsp. baking soda
2 tsp. baking powder
2 tsp. salt
¼ cup sugar
1½ tsp. ground coriander
2 cups buttermilk

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.  Sift dry ingredients into a medium size bowl.  Gradually add buttermilk, stirring until smooth.  The dough will be quite soft---do not over mix.  Divide dough in half, and using floured hands, form each half into a round, slightly flattened shape. Place in greased pie plates, and cut a cross in the top to keep it from splitting during baking.  Bake at 375 degrees for 45 to 60 minutes, or until bread sounds hollow when tapped both top and bottom.  Remove from pans to cool on wire racks.  While loaves are still hot, you may brush the tops with butter.  


If you omit the coriander, reduce the sugar to 2 tsp., and add a 15 oz. package of raisins, you’d have my mother’s favorite Irish soda bread recipe.  She got it from Mrs. Jones, the mother of a priest who taught my mom in high school in Denver.  Mom used to make this for the bake sale at St. Francis Hospital, which was always held the week before St. Patrick’s Day.  She’d tie a green ribbon through the cross, to make it more attractive for the sale table.  But she needn’t have bothered---the people working behind the counter often bought it right out of her hand!
3 Comments

Austrian Povitca

1/19/2014

1 Comment

 
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The bacon craze is on the downside of its run, it seems to me, or it is moving from trendy to mainstream and will soon be considered passé---or more likely, that has already happened and I'm just not on top of things.  I figured it had jumped the shark when I saw bacon-themed jewelry in the Rhode Island Novelty catalog.  So maybe those of us who have been bacon fans for decades can go back to enjoying its salty, smoky goodness without feeling like we're on a crowded hipster bandwagon.  One of my all time favorite bacon recipes is for Austrian povitica ("poh-VEE-teetz-ah" or "poh-vuh--TEETZ-ah" depending upon which Slovenian you ask). 

My recipe for povitica has been in my family for four generations.  My great-grandmother, Frances Zunic Sardick, brought it to this country from Austria.  You most often see the Croatian or Slovenian versions of this bread (usually called potica) which use ground walnuts, cream, honey, and a much sweeter dough rolled into very thin layers.  They are very popular at Christmas in our area, but I find them a bit dull compared to this savory beauty, which bakes up as a large, dramatic loaf.

Povitica is a traditional holiday bread, and in my family a special treat for Easter, at the end of Lenten fasts and meatless meals.  When my mother was a little girl, my grandmother used to make it on Good Friday to serve Saturday night.  How she could stand to fry bacon and bake bread on the most important day of fast and abstinence in the church calendar, I can’t imagine!  She certainly made of sterner stuff than Mom and Grandpa Frankie, who would leave the house and visit every church in a 25 mile radius to escape the tempting aromas.


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You can use any bread dough, white or wheat, for povitica.  Most people prefer a richer dough with eggs and butter and at least a little sugar.  Most recently I used a potato bread dough with a cup of whole wheat flour thrown in and no added sugar.  It took longer to rise (90 minutes for the first rise, 50 for the seond),  but with better flavor and texture.  It may also take a while to roll the dough out to 24" x 20", but if you let the dough relax for a few minutes between rollings, it will cooperate better. 

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The povitica filling is made of chopped cooked bacon, chopped walnuts, a little sugar and six beaten eggs.  The beaten aggs are poured gently and evenly over the other filling ingredients, and then the whole business rolled up like a jelly roll.  Use the dining room table like my mom did if you lack counter space in the kitchen. 

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Here it is all coiled up and ready for a second rising.  Any 9" x 13" pan will do, but I prefer one with higher sides.  A lasagna pan works great, but so does an ordinary cake pan like the one pictured here.   

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I like to brush on an egg wash for the second half of the baking process to achieve this deep, rich color, but that's not really necessary.  The rippling on the crust is normal after the povitica cools, so don't be distressed  by it.  It takes about three hours to cool completely, so don't wrap it in plastic untl then.

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It's a challenge to cut across such a large loaf, but I have an extra long bread knife.  You will probably want to cut the loaf down the middle first and then make smaller slices.  Povitica is delicious warm or cold, plain or buttered.  I often enjoy it warm with a light buttering and a thin drizzle of honey---salt, sweet, crunchy, creamy, chewy, all at once!

AUSTRIAN POVITICA

1 batch of bread dough, white or wheat
1 ½ to 2 lbs. bacon                             
1 lb. chopped walnuts
2 Tbs. sugar
6 eggs

Follow instructions for any simple bread recipe up to the first rising. While it is rising, chop uncooked bacon into small pieces, and fry until cooked, but not crisp.  Drain and set aside.  After dough has doubled, punch down dough and knead for 3 minutes to work out the air bubbles.  Roll out onto a large lightly floured counter or cloth to 24" by 20", about ¼“ thick. Spread bacon bits evenly over dough, then sprinkle the sugar on top, followed by the walnuts.  Beat the eggs thoroughly and pour over filling and dough.

Roll up the dough lengthwise jellyroll style.  Pull slightly on the dough to get a tight roll, but be careful not to tear holes in the dough.  Seal the edges, then coil into an oval loaf with the two edges tucked into the center (see photo).  Place in a lightly greased 9" x 13" x 2½” loaf pan.  Cover with a clean cloth and let rise in a warm place until doubled in bulk, about 50 minutes.

Preheat oven to 450°.  If any of the egg mixture has leaked out during rising, brush this over the top of the loaf for a glaze.  (In any case, get as much of the egg out of the bottom of the pan as possible, or it will cause the bottom crust to burn.)  Bake for 10 minutes at 450°, then reduce heat to 350° and bake for about 40 minutes, or until nicely browned.   If the bread begins to brown too much on top, cover the loaf lightly with aluminum foil until the last 10 minutes of baking.  If your oven doesn’t bake evenly, turn the pan around at least once during the baking process to ensure the bread is being baked thoroughly on all sides.

A printer-friendly version can be found HERE.
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MMmmmmm........bacon! Make povitica this week!
1 Comment

Cottage Loaf--when less than perfect is perfect

12/17/2013

2 Comments

 
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The bread to the left is called a "cottage loaf" and was not baked by me.  I got this photo from someone else's website.  The cottage loaf shape can be used for any bread, wheat or white.  The shape originated in Britain during the Roman occupation, when ovens were rather tall and shaped like beehives.  To stack one loaf on top of another made maximum use of oven space, a necessity when the ovens were communal and had to accommodate all the bakers in the village.  I have included the recipe for this in my new cookbook The Breadhead Bible Father Dom's Favorite Recipes, which should be coming out in the spring.  I needed a picture, so I set out to bake a nice looking loaf to use for the photo accompanying the recipe.

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So here are my lovely loaves all lined up.  You can see how I've pushed two fingers through the middle of each stack, as specified by the directions.  I sprayed them with a little cooking spray to keep them from drying out and covered them with a light cloth so they could rise the second time, which they did enthusiastically.  On two of them, I took a pair of scissors and snipped around the perimeter of the top loaf, to create a kind of crown effect. With confidence and anticipation, I put them in the oven at 375 degrees . . .

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. . . and this is what emerged from the oven 45 minutes later.  Mutant toadstools.  Bread that grows in a swamp.  Not exactly the kind of hero loaves I was hoping for.  In one way, this is not surprising--I seem to remember having similar problems when I made them for an episode of Breaking Bread.  What WAS surprising was the response I got when I posted them on my Facebook Fan Page (and these are unedited):  

I like the whimsy.

I think they look awesome. Esp the ones with friar tuck hair lol
Or is it more 3 stooges-esque....lol

I like how they look, Father. Plus I bet they still taste great

I am totally digging their free form shape. Not all bread can be "super models" if it still tastes great then it is all good.

what a hoot!

I'd eat them!

I like the way they look. I think it was meant to be! Looks charming....and I bet a delight to eat.

They are so cute. They look like little characters from a Disney movie. Love them.

I think think they are really cool---kind of Alice in Wonderland!

I thought differentiation was a good thing.

They look artistic and tasty.

Out of a dozen or more I only had one that ever came out straight! looks like you stuck them together with more than just jamming a wooden spoon handle through the center.
Separate them into their individual loaves after baking and no one will ever know!

Reminds me of a Willy Wonka creation. Pour some chocolate on top and give them a funny name. Magical! (This one from my sister Eileen, God bless her!)

I think they're cute!
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In short, it's obvious I need to lighten up on the "Bread-Monk-must-be-perfect" attitude and just enjoy the process as much as product.  Not a bad thing to learn just before Christmas, when we put tremendous amounts of pressure on ourselves and our families to have the "perfect Christmas."  The food matters, but not as much as the fun, and far less than the reason we celebrate in the first place.

2 Comments

Barm Brack, fresh out of the oven

9/28/2011

2 Comments

 
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This fragrant loaf is traditionally served on Halloween with a gold ring or other charm baked into it that was supposed to bring luck to the person who received it.  I haven't made it in a couple of years, but I really should serve it all year long, since it makes the kitchen smell marvelous and it makes a great breakfast bread.
     There is some disagreement as to the meaning of the name “barm brack.”  It could mean “bread made from barm” (a yeasty by-product of beer making) or it may be a corruption of the Anglo-Irish bairigen breac, meaning “speckled cake.”   You can also bake this bread in two 8½ x 4½ x 2½-inch loaf pans, but you’ll need to bake them for 40 to 45 minutes.  I like the rounded form better, since it looks more rustic.  Here's the recipe:
Barm Brack
2 cups strong black tea, divided and cooled to lukewarm
2 packages active dry yeast
1½ cup raisins
½ cup brown sugar
2 eggs, lightly beaten
¼ cup (1/2 stick) butter, melted
1½ teaspoons salt
1 to 2 teaspoons of mixed spice (see note)
6¼ to 6¾ cups all purpose flour
    
In a small bowl, dissolve yeast and a pinch of brown sugar in ¼ cup of tea; allow to develop.  In a medium size bowl, dissolve brown sugar in the remaining 1¾ cups of tea; add raisins and allow to soak for ten minutes.  Add yeast mixture to tea.  Stir in eggs, butter, salt and spices.  Stir in six cups of flour, one cup at a time, mixing after each addition until flour is completely incorporated.  
      Turn dough out onto a lightly floured board and knead for 6 to 8 minutes, adding small amounts of flour as needed to keep dough manageable.  The finished dough should be moderately soft and only slightly sticky.  Lightly oil the surface of the dough and place it back into rinsed bowl and cover with a clean, dry towel.  Allow to rise in a warm place free from drafts until doubled, 60 to 75 minutes.
      Lightly grease three 8-inch pie pans.  Punch dough down and knead briefly to expel larger air bubbles.  Divide dough into three portions and shape each into a flattened round about 8 inches across.  Place loaves in pie plates. Cover loaves with a clean dry cloth and allow to rise until nearly doubled, about 30 minutes.  Bake in a preheated 375 degree oven for 20 to 25 minutes, or until browned on top and loaves sound hollow when tapped on the bottom.  Cool on racks.
 Note---You can use any number of spices for this traditional Irish bread, including nutmeg, ginger, cinnamon, cloves, allspice, anise, and mace.  My favorite: 1 teaspoon of cinnamon, ¼ teaspoon each of nutmeg and mace, with a pinch of ground anise seed.



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    Fr. Dominic Garramone AKA 
    the Bread Monk

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