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Breadhead Bookshelf: Ultimate Bread by Eric Treuille and Ursula Ferrigno

12/27/2014

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On my last Breadhead Bookshelf blog, I reviewed Bernard Clayton’s The New Complete Book of Bread, a classic baking book without any photos and few illustrations but literally hundreds of recipes.  In this blog, we’ll take a look at its polar opposite, another one of my favorites titled Ultimate Bread by Eric Treuille and Ursula Ferrigno. This treasure has about only 100 recipes, but the photos by Ian O’Leary are luminous and inspiring.  

Ultimate Bread is published by the Britain's Dorling Kindersley (DK Publishing, 1998) and so the recipes are in both metric and American Standard measurements.  Normally that makes me a little nervous, because I’ve picked up a few cookbooks from the Barnes &Noble bargain shelf that were originally published in Great Britain and the recipes were evidently converted without being tested, based on the disastrous results I got from following them.  But that is not the case here, and both the authors are experienced recipe writers who offer accurate measurements and clear (if not always extensive) instructions.  The introductory chapters include the standard information on equipment, ingredients, and methods – nothing special here other than a European spin on technique– although the information and photos on the various toppings for bread were something of a revelation for me.

There are a little over 100 recipes here, with a great deal of emphasis on European and ethnic breads.  There were a number of flatbreads I hadn’t even heard of—Schiacciata, Carta di Musica, Torta al Testa, ekmek, barbari, etc.  Ultimate Bread also introduced me to fougasse, a traditional French bread formed into a variety of symbolic shapes, and Scottish Baps, both of which have become monastery favorites.

As good as the recipes are, the real reason to obtain a copy of this book for your Breadhead Bookshelf is the inspiration provided by the photos.  I don’t have an easy way share any of these photos with you since I am working one handed after my surgery, but I recommend that you go to the Google books web site (click HERE) so you can scroll through the pages of “The Gallery of Breads” at the beginning of the book. The photos of Ciabatta, Parker House rolls, and Bolo-Rei made me want to try the recipes immediately!

If you are a baker who likes visual inspiration more than detailed instruction, this book is definitely for you.  It is easily available online, and is not terribly expensive when purchased used.  I recommend buying it in the hardback edition, because you will use this book so much you will want to have a copy that can take a beating in the kitchen. 


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Breadhead Bookshelf: The New Complete Book of Breads by Bernard Clayton, Jr.

12/23/2014

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On December 22 I had carpal tunnel surgery on my right wrist.  Evidently all those years of kneading have taken their toll!  I don’t much care for the idea of an extended period of forced inactivity, so I decided that I would spend some time training the speech recognition function on my computer, so I can still post some new bread blogs.  People often ask me about which bread cookbooks I have in my library, and ask for suggestions about what they might purchase.  So I’m spending my convalescence adding to the posts labeled “Breadhead Bookshelf.”

Obviously there are thousands of bread cookbooks out there, and more and more of them are being published every year.  I’ll  try to concentrate on those books which I think are especially useful to the average Baker rather than concentrating on specialty cookbooks.  Some of them will be relatively new, others were will be classics that should be a part of every Breadhead ‘s library.

Some of my favorite cookbooks are out of print, but if you’re reading this blog post, you’re probably tech savvy enough to be able to find them online.  Abe’s Books is one of the best online book search services, but there are others out there, including Amazon of course.  I also recommend making a habit of frequenting used bookstores.  I’ve had good luck finding obscure volumes of all subjects in the kind of independent bookstores you find in the town squares of small Midwestern towns along Route 66.

It was not in a used bookstore but at a rummage sale that my friend Mary Ellen found me a copy of Bernard Clayton’s The Complete Book of Breads.  This classic, first published in 1973, is one of the treasures on my Breadhead reference shelf, in part because of the dedication my friend wrote on the inside front cover: “I’ll take a half dozen of each!”

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Bernard Clayton Jr. was a journalist who discovered the delights of artisan breads while on a trip across Europe with his wife Marjorie in 1965.  He began baking bread as a hobby but it soon became an obsession and he traveled all over the United States and Europe to find new recipes.  The Complete Book of Breads was a bestseller and can be credited (along with James Beard’s Beard on Bread) with inspiring the home baking renaissance of the late 1970s.  Clayton died in 2011 at age 94.  His New York Times obituary can be found HERE.


The Complete Book of Breads wasn’t quite as popular as Beard on Bread, in part because James Beard was a flamboyant character and more adept at self-promotion.  It is also more expensive—the most recent edition retails for $30.00.  But I find myself using Clayton’s book far more often, primarily because it is, well---complete (I don't know of any other modern source for the recipe for pioneer salt-rising bread, for example). I made extensive use of this encyclopedic collection when I was researching recipes for all three seasons of Breaking Bread with Father Dominic.   


Although the book is organized into the usual chapters—white, whole wheat, rye, etc.—there are more than a few surprises among the recipes.   For example, under “White Breads” we find such intriguing titles as: Thirty Minute, Cuban, Egg Harbor, Scottish Buttermilk, Old Order Amish, Turnipseed Sisters’ and Weissbrot mit Kümmel. Obviously, many of these recipes have an interesting story to go along with them, making Clayton’s masterpiece a cookbook which is part travelogue. Breadheads who have enjoyed the “Bread Breaks” in my cookbooks will undoubtedly enjoy hearing about the people Clayton encounters in his explorations in search of good bread. 

Regarding the recipes themselves. I especially appreciate Clayton’s painstaking attention to detail in giving directions, right down to the amount of time each step takes.  This level of instruction makes it possible to successfully bake everything from French baguettes to bagels to brioche.  I also appreciate that he makes suggestions for ingredients substitutions, since I often begin baking without checking the pantry to see if I have all the groceries I need!

Apart from the cover art, you won’t find gorgeous food photography nor stylish page designs—this is a book that is meant to be used, not perused on the coffee table. Beginner bakers may find the lack of illustrations distressing, but if you know your way around a kneading board, you shouldn’t have any trouble.  Between Clayton’s Complete Book of Breads and that perennial favorite The Joy of Cooking, you’re set for a lifetime of culinary adventures.


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Hoska/Vanocka/Stricka

12/14/2014

3 Comments

 
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Several times recently I've been asked about hoska, a rich braided bread from the region now known as the Czech Republic.  I must confess that I haven't made it since we taped season three in the summer of 2001!  So I figured I'd better get out book three of the Breaking Bread series and try it again.

In that cookbook, I referred to the bread as vanocka, and it's also called stricka, depending on the region of eastern Europe where it's made.  Like most festive winter breads, it uses dried fruit and nuts (almonds) for flavor, and every grandmother has her favorite combination, whether it's raisins and slivered almonds or candied orange peel with whole blanched almonds or any number of variations.  I used candied pineapple and sliced almonds for no other reason than that's what was in the pantry!    

You'd best have a big portion of your day set aside for this recipe, because the dough rises much more slowly than the usual white bread recipe.  The reason for this sluggish rise is the richness of the dough.  Extra eggs, a relatively large amount of sugar and a whole stick of butter make for some heavy lifting for the yeast---but resist the temptation to add more.  That long slow rise also contributes to more complex flavors and better texture.
 
My version turned out a little too dark IMHO, because we have a commercial convection oven and you can't turn the blower off completely, which makes any bread brown faster, but especially with an egg wash.  I reduced the temperature 25 degrees and loosely covered the loaf in foil, but still got a rather darker crust than I wanted.  Next time I may add more water to the egg wash, put it on later or perhaps omit the glaze all together.

My recipe for a fairly standard version of hoska is HERE.  Sometimes this bread is made as a single braid, a two layer braid as shown above, or even a three-layer braid as in the photo below.  If you have trouble rolling out the ropes of dough the same size, try using the slab braid method described HERE.

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Here's what it looks like as a triple layer braid. Click on the image to go to the original website (in Czech, I think!).
I like to serve hoska warm with a lightly  sweetened honey butter, but try it plain at first so you can appreciate the blend of lemony/citrusy/spicy flavors.  I might add that if you don't finish off such a large loaf right away, it makes outstanding French toast and an utterly unique bread pudding as well.  You may find you like it enough to make it all year long!
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    Fr. Dominic Garramone AKA 
    the Bread Monk

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