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Baking dishes old and new

4/23/2015

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Some time ago I posted on Facebook that I had obtained a Lékué silicon baker, a new product that allows you to mix and bake bread in the same vessel (Click HERE to see the video from the manufacturer). Since I tend to use tools and pans that are decidedly "old school" (anything designed after the 1800's is considered "new-fangled") I wasn't immediately attracted to it, but I had an Amazon gift card and thought maybe I should test it as a service to my loyal Breadheads.    
     In order to make a fair test, I carefully followed the directions for one of the bread recipes that came with the bread mold, including weighing the ingredients European- style (Lékué is headquartered in Barcelona).  I used the recipe titled "Easy-to-Make No-Knead Bread" in part because it requires a long slow rise (6 to 8 hours) which suited my schedule for the day.  I mixed the dough at 12:30 p.m., right after midday prayers.  The mixing process was not enhanced by the floppiness of the silicon mold, and the suggested spatula became increasingly useless as the dough got stiffer, so I switched to a wooden spoon. As directed, I mixed the ingredients, closed up the little tab and covered it with a towel.
     I checked the dough throughout the afternoon, and found it had risen to the top of the rim by 4 p.m. and it never rose any further. I followed the instructions for baking: 425 degrees F. for 40 minutes, then I removed the loaf from the pan and baked it 10 more minutes on the open rack.  The result was an oddly-shaped but definitely crusty loaf of bread, not very browned, but that's what I expected with a recipe that  had no sugar and a long rising period.

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As you can see, the dough was over-risen, because it didn't get any "oven-spring"--extra loft you get in the first 10 to 15 minutes of baking.  Notice too the holes in the surface of the dough which was next to the pan. I suspect that's a function of the wetness of the dough, which was really more like a very thick batter. The finished result, when toasted, reminded me of English muffins. 
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I'll be doing some more experimentation with this new gadget. I did find the "mix and bake in one vessel" aspect appealing, and the mold can be wiped clean with a damp cloth in about 30 seconds. If I do the wet dough recipe again, I think I'll try letting rise only four to six hours and see what happens. There are several more recipes in the booklet to test as well---stay tuned.
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This week I also received a Romertopf unglazed clay pot. The company has been around since 1967 (check out their website HERE) but the technique of cooking or baking in a clay pot goes back to the very origins of of cooking itself. There are plenty of advantages to baking in unglazed clay vessels: more even heat, better crust, and the bread never fails to come out of the pan, among others. The advantage to baking in a covered unglazed vessel is that you can soak the pot in water before the dough goes in, which produces steam during the baking process. The steam allows the dough surface to remain soft during the period of oven spring, making for loftier loaves. The moisture also dissolves sugars on the surface of the dough, so after the steam evaporates, the sugars caramelize and create a glossy, golden brown crust. Read more HERE. There is a style of  clay baking pot with a lid called a cloche, but they are a little pricey (as is the Romertopf pictured above--$80+!) and I could never afford one.  But my friend found one (virtually unused) at a second hand store for a fraction of the cost, and gifted it to me. I'll be baking with it this weekend and give you a further report next week.


God bless and happy baking!

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Tsourecki: Greek Easter Bread

4/4/2015

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Picturehttp://www.marthastewart.com/968095/tsoureki-greek-easter-bread
Full disclosure here: the photo to the left is NOT mine, nor did I make the bread.  This is Martha Stewart's version of Greek tsourecki, a rich braided loaf traditionally made for Easter. The deep red eggs are meant to represent the blood of Christ, and many Greeks consider them an essential part of the bread. But my enthusiasm for this tradition has been dampened ever since I watched a fellow monk cut a slice THROUGH one of the eggs because he wanted a smaller portion, leaving bits of shell all over the table and in the remainder of the loaf. Besides, we get more than enough hard-boiled eggs during Easter week (more on that in my next post).

You might find it unusual that as a monk I'm not a staunch defender of culinary tradition, and in the case of tsourecki I take any number of liberties. The traditional flavorings for this Greek treat are
mastic (a spice made from resin which is dried and then ground) and aromatic mahlab (made from ground seeds of a cherry native to Greece).  If you want a really traditional version of this recipe, you can find it HERE.  


My version of this sweet, rich bread uses orange and anise as flavorings. I omit the red eggs, but there are plenty in dough---five, to be exact, and one more used as a glaze. It also has a whole stick of butter and 3/4 cup of sugar, so it's a very rich dough. The dough is a bit sticky even after kneading, but resist the temptation to add more flour; things will get better after the first rise.

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Large braided loaves are the traditional form for tsourecki, although I've seen some lovely versions in the form of a braided ring or crown (click HERE to see one). My recipe makes two large braided loaves, which may seem like a lot, but you probably have plenty of family coming over for Easter, and this bread makes outstanding French toast.  You can always double wrap one for the freezer to serve on Pentecost.
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The instructions will tell you to roll ropes of dough for braiding, but a slab braid like these beauties here will work just as well and be a lot easier. Not sure what a slab braid is?  Click HERE for a tutorial video from my "Breadhead Minute" series sponsored by the Home Baking Association.
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And here is the glorious result of all that effort.  I'll be serving this lovely loaf at our reception after the Easter vigil, probably with whipped honey butter. The second loaf will be on the monastery table Easter Sunday morning. 
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    Fr. Dominic Garramone AKA 
    the Bread Monk

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